Daily Front Row

2012 February 8

Bernardo Rojo's Moment at Joseph Abboud

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Bernardo Rojo
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(NEW YORK) All eyes will be on Joseph Abboud tomorrow when the men's line returns to the runway for the first time since 2005. We recently caught up with hunky creative director, Bernardo Rojo, to get his story and hear how he feels about his first major show. BY EDDIE ROCHE 

Background, please!
I was born and raised in Madrid, Spain. I went to school for fashion and design in Madrid, against all odds. My family wanted me to be a lawyer, doctor, or architect, but it wasn’t for me. I was the weird kid who looks at fashion magazines rather than sports magazines.  

Never heard of such a thing! What fashion magazines to people in Spain read?
There’s a magazine called Telva, and I used to look at Vogue. But there were no men’s magazines, besides, say, L’Uomo Vogue. It was more about women’s. Those were the magazines that I was always looking at.

What did you do beyond?
I was always looking at people and going to the stores. I remember the Calle Serrano, which is the main street where they have the top stores, and I was always in love with it. After school I used to walk there and look at the fashion. I was obsessed with Adolfo Dominguez, a very prominent designer at the time, who came with the quote “arruga es bella," which means “the beauty of the wrinkle.” 

Why did you want to come to America?  
The UK is one of the most inspirational cities to me. But as creative as people are, there are very few companies in terms of menswear jobs. You go to Italy or you come to America, where there's a lot to do. I thought that there was a lot that I could bring to America. In fact, I wanted to work for Ralph [Lauren] it’s no secret I interviewed with Ralph.  

When did you start at Joseph Abboud, and what was your position?
I started in 2005. To me, the potential of working on a collection and working in a different product category of shirts in tailored clothing in a company that is known for tailored clothing, it was just the opportunity for me to take. It’s a true iconic American men’s brand. But they needed to change. I saw the product, and it just wasn’t what it deserved to be. It was sleepy, the product was a little tired, a look that to me was not really relevant, though it could sell. So I started to look at the product. So how are we going to change the product without alienating the customer that the company had already?

How did you go about doing that? 
It was a very healthy business, and I had to maintain that customer, and create a new one. I want to educate that older or perhaps less stylish customer. The retailers and customers accepted it, which is the key aspect, but at that time, our sportswear hadn’t evolved as well or as fast as clothing. There were comments about our 2008 presentation; one fashion editor whom I adore made a comment about the collection's disconnect, between the dressier clothing's evolution, and the sportswear's lack of evolution. That comment got to the CEO at the time, and he offered me the challenge of taking the brand to what it’s supposed to be.   

How would you describe the old Joseph and the new direction?
The brand ten years ago was starting to decline. Joseph had been known for his big chunky sweaters and a sense of luxury; he was like a bridge between American and Europe. It was incredibly beautiful! But then he got into the period of time. In fashion, you can look back for references, but you have to keep evolving the brand. Who knows? Maybe the brand will evolve to something so different that it can’t make reference to the old Joseph Abboud. It’s important to evolve the brand, to make it current, to evolve it to the way people live today, the way people behave today.  

Have the price points changed since the evolvement?
They've changed slightly, but not much. We're all about maintaining a certain level of quality. To me, to change the price just because you changed the aesthetics is not necessary. I call the collection affordable luxury. There's no need for Joseph Abboud to charge $3,000 for a jacket if you can charge $800! It's beautifully crafted here in America, but it's not made by hand. The price should reflect that, not only because of the economy, but because people are becoming more savvy about how to spend money. The days of the $10,000 suit? I’m not saying that they’re over, because there will always be a customer for it. But I think people can’t afford it and I prefer to make clothes that people are going to wear because they can afford them.  

Have you ever met the real Joseph Abboud?
No, unfortunately I haven’t! Actually, I bumped into him on the street about a year ago and I saw him. But I definitely didn't feel comfortable saying, “Hey Joseph.”  

Would you ever envision Joseph Abboud having a women’s line?
Yeah, why not? But is it going to happen now? No. I have to focus on this show and this brand. But why not? Everything is possible.

Why haven’t you guys shown since 2005?
Our last show was sort of controversial; some people loved it, some people hated it. So the company had to evolve in a different way. After that fashion show, there was nothing; there weren’t any other shows, because the product wasn’t even there. Fashion shows are not just shows to me; the product has to be there. and it took Joseph Abboud all these years to evolve.

This is the first show that’s really in your hands. Are you nervous?
Yeah, nervousness always makes you better, because you question every single thing. You look at things over and over, trying to make them better. There’s one thing that I learned a long time ago: The enemy of good is better. So there are lots of stressful, sleepless nights. I’m not freaking out, but I am very anxious!

How will you know when you've hit your stride?   
I already feel good. I’m making my dream happen.